This type of electric fencing was introduced some 25 years ago. Initially develped to keep predators out of free range pig units, allways the farrowing area pens and often around the field perimeter

Coincidently, as outdoor pig production fell into decline, the production of free range eggs started to climb and has since then grown into a very large agricultural industry.

It soon became clear that this method of fencing was an economical way of deterring predators, with the added advantage of controlling the movement of hens as well!

THIS 9 LINE FENCING IS NOW DISCONTINUED !!

As from 1st January 2009 new EU regulations and standards of practice within the Electric Fencing Association state that the practice of Negative & Positive wiring of multi-line systems is classed as bad practice !!

This is the same overall height as the old 9 line.

By having 12 lines, it allows the gaps between wires to be 85mm from top to bottom and therefore making it unatractive for predators to get through!! The bottom wire is negative and all others are positive.This means that any predator touching the fence will get a shock which will deter same....and also this system is very low on maintainence !!

This electric fence, if properly maintained.is a very good deterrent

to intruders...BUT CANNOT BE GURANTEED TO TOTALLY STOP SAME

 

REMEMBER

THE ONLY THING THAT STOPS A FOX DEAD

COMES OUT THE END OF A GUN !!!!!!!!!

This is a bit of a grey area..A bit like insurance..if you have not got it you can not use it !! If it is properly installed and maintained it is a usefull tool.

It has to be installed properly
It has to be managed for welfare reasons
It stops hens smothering each other in the corners
It reduces floor eggs against wall and systems
It can only realistically be done before hens are in shed
Nobody pays for dead hens and you have to pick up floor eggs

 

MULTI TIER SYSTEMS

A wire is installed along both sides of the shed. About 30mm away from wall. Wires are also installed either side of division fences

16k unit = 8 cross wires     32k unit = 16 cross wires

It is powered so you can easily switch off or lift out the pop hole wire out of system !!

You are not allowed to spray the fence line.

You can either strim or mow the line...this will have to be done quite frequently to stop undergrowth shorting the system.

A swath up to 1m wide on each side of fence is needed so as vegetation does not grow and then bend and fall against lines

Mypex can be used. It is pegged down to ground and then fence erected on top. It normally works well , but needs a lot of pins in windy situations.

Most customers have used Plant care ltd who can supply offcut rolls of Mypex..Tony Marriot..01664 501 146

With the unique Rappa system the fencline can be quickly and completely picked up and moved or stored!

Please when erecting a fence leave enough room on outside of fence line to allow this to be done

This area is often overlooked. If done properly, it will save you time with not having so many dirty eggs.

The less dirt taken into house on hens feet the better !

DIRTY EGGS = MORE WORK FOR YOU to clean them

The best solution i have found is to use 3" to 4" stone for as far out as you can afford. The bigger and rougher the better. It may be awkward for human walking, but it cleans the hens feet. The rain washes the muck through and you can deep rip area between flocks. Concrete is expensive. It can be cleaned easily..but unless the muck is collected..the area at edge becomes a swamp!

Inside the shed the flocks are divided. There is no law to say they have to be divided on the range. BUT it sometimes helps to alleviate problems on the immediate near range. It can help stopping the hens all working their way down to the egg room vacinity.

If you have two linked units, it is better to have a fixed 150m mesh fence dividing the two houses.

Remember if you are doing divisions to have a tall pedestrian gate by house so you can easily walk around the shed to inspect/repair pop holes etc. low gates will allow the hens to fligh over!

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